Grateful audience – Style – Kommersant


Shear or grow? Kommersant Style collected the opinions of barbers and stylists, and also found out by what means the effect of “grooming” is achieved and how the clientele of barber shops has changed recently.

Daniil Kammer, VIP barber Mr. Right at Patriarch’s Ponds

“Men prefer shorter haircuts to save time on styling, but still want voluminous hair. “Military” and “British” are the most popular types of haircuts we have, only now they have become more textural and expressive.

Shaving with a straight razor is still relevant. We make it with Truefitt & Hill cosmetics. “Royal shave” is a pleasant ritual already from the moment of preparation for the shave itself: steaming, rubbing in essential oils, followed by a light massage. The effect obtained after this service is impeccable. The skin is not damaged by a rough blade and after shaving the face looks more rested.

A hair styling tool that a modern man cannot do without? This is a spray for wet hair based on sea salt – with it the styling is natural and at the same time securely fixed. It is produced by several brands, such as Daimon Barber and London Grooming. The tool gives volume to the hair, creates the desired shape and effectively holds it for a long period of time. It can be used as a pre-laying agent to create volume before clay, paste. And if you spray on individual dry or slightly damp strands, you can texture your hairstyle.

There is an influx of new customers to the salons now, but less than in pre-pandemic times, the permanent audience of the barbershop has not changed much, but customers working in the IT field have begun to visit us noticeably less often.”

Elena Tulinova, authentica stylist. club

“Now the trend is individuality: there are no rigid frames, the most important thing is to choose the right shape that will favorably emphasize the advantages of the face. Therefore, the audience here is divided 50 to 50 – someone grows their hair, and someone cuts it. Now there are more requests for neat haircuts that exactly fit the shape of the face and head. But a clear trend is well-groomed hair and the use of styling.

Long beards were all the rage a few years ago, but a well-styled beard of the right length and shape is a timeless story. One of the trends remains “light unshaven”, the very length that gives charm and brutality. But do not think that you can just not shave, because even a short beard needs to be shaped and trimmed.

The desired styling products are matte products, flexible or light hold, such as, for example, light pastes or matting clays. They make both a tousled effect and discipline the hair. I can recommend the sheg paste, cassius clay, or box’o’bollox paste from the Australian brand evo.

Our clients are mainly a stable audience of 30-45 years old, but every year more and more young men from 20 years old come to us.”

Sos Mesropyan, barber at SlowMo Tsvetnoy beauty salon

“I have been a barber for 12 years now. And the main trend that I note this season is men’s haircuts for short and medium hair. It is clear that men have stopped growing their hair. The brutal military version is very relevant: a short multi-layer bangs, a short-cropped nape and a pronounced parting.

I also shave with a straight razor, but there is little demand for it. I often use a shaver for this purpose.

I recommend using styling products to all men. Moreover, both for hair care and beard care. If you want to add structure to your hair, then you will need a medium hold wax to add texture, and for a beard, in order to keep it looking well-groomed, you will need a special oil.

My all-time favorite styling product is Redken Wax Blast 10, a medium hold spray wax that instantly defines the shape of your hair and keeps it long-lasting. In order to use it, you do not need to have absolutely no skills: just apply to dried hair.

Recently, the influx of customers has not decreased. There are also new ones. Most often they are more demanding and economical. And usually only middle-aged men end up in my chair.

Interviewed by Irina Kirienko

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